Belize, Day 4: Community Baboon Sanctuary and Cave Tubing

Tuesday, December 15, 2015

“I’m not fond of these modern sinks,” I told Kate Tuesday morning. Our sink was one step more peculiar than the large bowl sitting on top of the counter, as the water came out of the pipe into a smaller bowl that then emptied into the large bowl below. Why?

Fancy and somewhat useless sink

“We also have the shower of low self-esteem,” Kate replied.

“Because of the floor to ceiling plate glass looking out on the soaking tub?” I asked. Even though I knew the tub was completely enclosed with high walls of bamboo, I found that disturbing, especially when I could hear men’s voices from where a new casita was being built nearby.

The plate glass wall next to the shower

“That, and because you can see the reflection of your entire body in the giant mirror by the sink.”

I hadn’t noticed that, partly because I can’t see that far without my glasses and partly because I don’t look in mirrors all that much. It is not that I feel myself above vanity. It is more the recognition of a lost cause. I wish I could get in the habit of looking in mirrors more often. I can only wonder how often I go to class with broccoli in my teeth.

My reflection as I take the picture from in the shower of low-self esteem

I had a great view from the deck as I did my morning shoulder exercises. Way better than the basement storeroom where I do them at home.

The view while I did my exercises

Fry jacks for breakfast! They were larger than I remembered and not as hot as they should have been due to the buffet format, but still good to eat. I dipped mine in peach yogurt. Other than that, we had the usual selection of cereals, toast, and hard-boiled eggs. The morning’s fruit selection was slices of watermelon, star fruit, and pineapple.

We loaded the van and headed off to Bermuda Landing to visit the Community Baboon Sanctuary. Long-time readers may recall that the primates in question are not baboons but black howler monkeys.  Slaves from Africa, where baboons live, gave the name to these unfamiliar monkeys in their new home, and the name stuck in the Kriol population.

As we approached Bermuda Landing, we crossed the Belize River. Abel pointed out green iguanas in the trees over the water.  One large male, bright orange for the breeding season, extended his dewlap and bobbed his head.

Kim was our guide at the Sanctuary. As she explained how the Community Baboon Sanctuary formed, I looked around at the Christmas decorations. Large round, purple, shiny Christmas ornaments hung from a dried vines hanging across the room above our heads. The ornaments were interspersed with red and white Chinese paper lanterns. It produced quite a multicultural effect.

Christmas decorations at the Community Baboon Sanctuary

Kim came for a large family of 13. Her last name was McFadzean. She pointed on the map to her family’s land within the Sanctuary. Her father had been one of the first to sign the agreement to manage his land in a way that would be compatible with the howler monkeys. The Sanctuary is managed by a women’s conservation group. (Geraldine would say that it is because men never do anything.) Kim has been a volunteer for 15 years. One thing that impressed some of the students was that not all the landowners signed the agreement to protect the howler monkeys right off the bat. It took many years before the majority of landowners got on board.

Tour guide Kim, right, explains the history of the Sanctuary to the students

We spent more time with the monkeys this year than on the other two tours I’d been on. This area has a high density of monkeys because of the abundance of fig trees. Kim got quite close to the baby monkeys, closer than she would try to get to the adults, who are more dangerous. 

Kim calls down a baby black howler monkey

Baby in a tree

"Why did we give up prehensile tails?" Kate asked. "They would be so handy."

The tour that left after ours had a male guide. He was more effective at getting the alpha male to howl. Kim led us over to his group, where the monkeys were coming very close to the ground and the humans. Kaina got a great selfie with one of the babies.

From left to right, Megan, Kaina, monkey in front of someone from another tour, and Harriet

Megan and Kaina taking selfies with a juvenile and two babies

More baby pictures

And another, eating a leaf offered by the guide

Mama Monkey looking grumpy

Here is a video of the monkeys. Kate said, "Why did we ever give up prehensile tails? They would be so handy."
I could only suggest that they would make it difficult to wear pants.

When our time was up, Kim led us back to the building. She took time to show us one medicinal plant, the ringworm tree. When freshly picked, the leaves produce a yellow sap that can be used to treat ringworm and other itchy skin problems.

The yellow sap of a freshly picked leaf from ringworm wood

Cave tubing was incredible. We had to walk a long way over gravel to get to the put in spot, including fording a river that was not quite waist deep and had a swift current. I assumed the rope that hung across the water was for us to hang onto as we walked, although no one used it.

Tiffany give the thumbs up in the parking lot

Crossing the river

Several groups of tubers floated by all linked together with ropes in fancy tubes that had back rests and seats. We had regular old black inner tubes like I’d had growing up. I was fine with that because you could put the tube over one shoulder with your head in the middle to carry it. It was somewhat less cumbersome that way.

Group shot at the cave entrance

  

Entering the cave

We floated a long way through the cave. “This is so cool,” Kate observed. “This is how caves are made!”

In the cave--that's me in the striped shirt

Left to right, Amanda G, Becca, Kaina, and Mel

Kate's selfie of the two of us

There were some stalactites off to the side. The roof directly over us was mostly smooth, indicating few cracks where water could seep through. We saw holes where fruit bats had made shelters by pooping on the rocks. Because they eat fruit, their poop is acidic. Acidic substances dissolve limestone. I was impressed by the perfect symmetry of the holes as well as their depth. Abel pointed out one hole that had bats roosting in it. The hole was so deep—2 or 3 feet at least—that I had to paddle furiously against the current to get directly underneath it to see to the top were the bats were crowded together. I apologized for shining my headlamp on them and disturbing their sleep.

Kate's feet at the cave exit

Scenery along the river

Here are some videos I took while we were in the cave and afterwards. Kate has a cameo.

It was getting near sunset, which is when the iguanas come out of the trees and go to wherever they go for the night. This big male was walking along the bank.

Male heading home at the end of his shift

There was a large rock above a deep spot in the river near the pull-out point. Many of the students jumped off the rock. Some of them had to overcome considerable trepidation. 

Kate standing on the jumping-off rock

This video shows some of the students jumping off the rock. It didn't go nearly as fast as the video suggests. There was a lot of time spent summoning courage.

We got stuck in rush hour traffic in Belmopan at 5:15. I asked Abel what the normal workday was for a person in Belmopan.

“Seven to five. Because most of them work for the government.”

Ten hours. Wow. And everyone did just get off work.

We got back at lodge at 6:00. There was no time to shower before dinner at 6:30, but for once we were relatively clean, having been in water for a large part of the afternoon. Our choices were Kriol shrimp with coconut rice and grilled vegetables or pineapple glazed lamb chops. The soup was tomato and lime, which was piquant and excellent. The veg did have grill marks, but were otherwise indistinguishable from the ubiquitous steamed veg. Tonight’s aliquot had zucchini, cauliflower, broccoli, and a mysterious light green, watery, tasteless something. At least there were no carrots. The shrimp had a red cream sauce with pineapple chunks and scallions. After I ate all the shrimp, which came in a bowl, I poured the sauce over the rice and veg, which made everything taste better. The rice was perfectly cooked.

We had to be at breakfast at 6:30 the following morning to get an early start to the Maya ruins. Kate and I went to our casita to take showers and go to bed. We hoped the students would do the same, but doubted they would. Ah, youth.